FAQ

A: No, this is not true. This would apply to only 1/10 of 1 percent of the furniture in the history of cabinet making. An antique is regarded as antique at 101 years. 100 years is the life expectancy of most unprotected hardwood. Air is the enemy. When wood finishes deteriorate, the wood is exposed to air and the wood will begin to deteriorate. If the old finish is properly removed and replaced, it will last forever. If a piece has documented historical significance, it will probably not be gracing your living room, but resting comfortably in a museum somewhere. These pieces would not be refinished in most cases.

A: In most cases, yes. When a glass with ice is left on a clear finish for a period of time, the condensation induces evaporation, which also induces evaporation of the banana oil in the sanding sealer. Sanding sealer is to lacquer as primer is to paint. When the stain dries, the absence of banana oil causes a reaction called blushing. In most cases, the oil can be replenished by rubbing Best Foods real mayonnaise onto the blushed area. Make sure the damage has dried before you try this. Allow the stain to dry completely then use mayonnaise.

A: Not in our experience. We have found these products to be ineffective. The only way to re-fit the chair is to open it up, clean out the decayed glue, put it together and clamp it properly. There are no shortcuts. When you try these products and they don’t work, it can get expensive.

A: Aliphatic Resin (carpenter’s wood glue) is best. Do not use gorilla glue, fiberglass resins or contact cement as all these products have a specific purpose. They are not joining glues. Always use clamps after gluing and fitting.

A: In most cases, no. Pictures don’t do us much good. If you bring us a drawer, door, etc., we can know everything we need to know like the age and condition of finish. The price of most refinishing is depicted by how easily the old finish is removed. If the finish strips easily, the following stages are reduced. You can call us and we can probably give you an idea by your description.

A: Wood finishes need a bath from time to time. A product like Murphy’s Oil Soap cleans dirt and grime that gets accumulated on furniture. We think the best rule for the use of polishes, waxes, sprays, etc. is to stick to one product. Do not switch back and forth. We do not recommend products that come in aerosol cans. They usually contain silicon, which is the only ingredient I’m absolutely opposed to.